I'm now in the home stretch of this trip: three days in the region of Montafon located in the far southwest corner of Austria bordering Switzerland. It's only an hour south of where I was in the Bregenzerwald. Gotta love the proximity of everything here compared to the distances in North America. My headquarters is Schruns, the largest village in Montafon, which has a storied history as an inspirational spot for author Ernest Hemingway.
I spent today at the largest ski area in the region, Silvretta Montafon. Just like yesterday’s stop, Brandnertal, two separate ski areas were connected by a tram, resulting in 88 miles of marked trails, tons of off-piste, and a lot of continuous vertical.
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The story of how the ski area developed its own unique niche over the last few years is interesting. To differentiate itself from such well-known nearby ski regions as the Arlberg, Silvretta Montafon developed a tagline and ethos, “das sportlichste Skigebiet,” which translates into “the most sporting/athletic ski area” (it’s a lot catchier in German). They earn the name by offering numerous scheduled “experiences” that are divided into categories: athletic (sunrise skiing, freestyle park tour, night sledding/rodeln, off-piste first tracks, freeriding, etc.), enjoyable (culinary, movies), and family-oriented. Some can be self-guided; some are done with guides; others include instruction.
They've crowned the entire program with an inspired set of advertisements (hats off to the creative people who thought up and executed this). Here's my favorite: "During ski vacations, my ex always wanted to sleep in."
The experience I tried yesterday is called Hochjoch Totale, a variation of the classic sunrise ski run, where you go out and get turns before the lifts publically open on a run covering 5,700 vertical feet, reportedly the biggest continuous drop in Austria.
I joined a few others at the hotel bus stop at 7 am.
Arriving at the base at 7:15 am, you take a few gondolas to the summit and have a hot tea while admiring the sunrise...
Do some warm-up exercises:
Get ground rules from Raimond Köhler, who dreamed up and is in charge of the entire "experiences" program:
And then you and several dozen of your closest friends are set loose on the mountain:
You can do the whole run at your own pace, take a break whenever you want, or for those with iron thighs, attempt to clean the entire top-to-bottom shot without stopping. After meeting at the bottom, everyone takes the lifts back up to a mountain restaurant, where a titanic breakfast awaits.
Locals urged me to try the sweet regional favorite called “Brösel” in Montafon or “Riebel” in the rest of Vorarlberg. With a texture resembling cous cous, you eat it with applesauce and it’s fantastic.
Over the course of the morning, I managed to hit a few nice knee-deep lines.
And then cruised in for an early-afternoon drink on the sunny deck of a hut.